Wednesday, 8 May 2013

Dhaka - 6 Months On


Well readers its the six month mark today and where has the time gone I hear you cry.  OK, for the record I can state that a few weeks of that have been in Malaysia, Nepal and recently New Delhi, but that's semantics.

So what have we grown accustomed to.  Well something never changes - Madam - 'I will leave in half an hour' is in fact see you in an hour and half and in many cases, traffic is not the blame.

You get used to disinfecting all fruit and veg.  Its amazing how you don't notice the taste of Milton sterilisation after a while.  Of course when we leave here, we will have not aged due to the formaldehyde that is sprayed on the veg/fruit (although they are supposed to be stopping that - mmm).  Water is out of a bottle or boiled then filtered - just a normal day.  The generator can be on and off all day with power coming and going - odd at first but you shrug your shoulders, wait 15 seconds and light returns.

I realised I needed to buy an Internet radio to get access to the rest of the world and more importantly Radio 4.  No I don't listen to The Archers, but it means I can keep up with local goss and my mate's jazz show.  Just in time for the Proms as well.  It felt like Christmas Day as a kid when it arrived through the mail bag - quite strange.  Mainstream culture is a bit short in supply here or if it does happen, it's so far away that a wee evening out is actually a day's expedition due to traffic, hartals or just plain practicalities of getting there..

My body aches - all over.  I have never done so much sport / exercise in my entire puff.  The tally so far is golf, cricket, swimming, gym, tennis and squash.  I'm knacked!  The annoying thing is, I haven't lost any weight.  The Doc says that's great as this posting is classified as a 10kg posting - humph.

Driving in Dhaka is unique.  The rules are, is that there are no rules.  This was made interesting yesterday driving in the rain and not knowing what was a puddle or a deep hole filled with water.  When walking about, a snorkel maybe necessary kit for doing the shopping.  Rickshaws are a pain when they don't make up their mind.  Mind you all drivers are a pain full stop.

The rains have started - early.  Will being a wee boy from Scotland that's nae trouble like.  However they are accompanied with Hollywood-esque style thunderstorms with spectacular  lightning and thunderclaps.  Its also warm rain - weird!  When it gets cold,  then it feels like a normal autumnal day in Blighty and fellow DC's (Diplomatic Colleagues) are feart of the cool pool in the winter - really pathetic!

You get used to sitting in traffic for no reason at all.  The barber giving you a head massage as part of your trim.  There are fruit and veg with unpronounceable names and best fried in curry powder as I am advised.  Yep ladies and gentleman they fry everything here - just like home - ahhhh.  You get used to no cheese, pork, sweets, cream, decent beer, Tunnocks, high speed Internet  etc - basically all the bad/good stuff depending on your point of view.

Living becomes part of your daily life in as much that everything needs planned, especially in relation to food.  No corner M&S here, which Madam relied on before I took pity on her.  Cafe culture is starting to develop in a Bangla sort of way.  You never get used to the long life milk in your cappuccino and decide its easier to stop drinking them.  Creativity is needed for cooking and chilling.  DVD's are in plentiful supply at very cheap rates.  Mind you I found out DVD's in Nepal are cheaper and better quality.  Me thinks I need to have a chat with our local supplier, irrespective whether they are knocked off or not.

Virtually everything gets recycled in some shape or form.  Case in point,  yesterday at the market, being the dutiful sustainable TS and haggling over my locally grown fruit and veg, the items were placed in paper bags.  On inspection at home, the bags were made from scrap paper which had various email addresses on, spreadsheets and replies to irate emails.  A shredder is now being pursued as we speak.

One thing is that when you get treated to a luxury, you really really appreciate it or take advantage of it before it goes.  The mail bag is infrequent which this year resulted in Christmas being put on hold for a number of people as the pressies were stuck in the UK mail centre as they had decided to finish early - ho ho ho - NOT.

The call to prayer happens constantly and you eventually fail to hear it, especially at 5am.  Mind you it is in that confusing stage where all the mosques do different times - not sure why, but it can bend your mind a bit.  Also the call to prayer speakers are right beside the ninth tee on the Army Golf Course - not good for the concentration.

Events are a highlight - even the monthly pub quiz!  Dinner parties are just a normal state of affair and excuse for anything.  Party decorators are a must for big events which either results in the flagrant abuse of health and safety rules as we know it for the erection of whatever or if in doubt over what decor to choose, just cover everything in un-earthed fairy lights.  I mean everything, trees, buildings, roads etc

I have started learning Bangla, which is quite amusing considering the trouble I have with English. Your car has to be kept clean - that I find very challenging!  No-one is ever at the other end of Skype even though their profile says they are on - please log off people - very confusing.  Six hours time difference just screws everything up.  All invites happen so late that in one instance we received the invite after the event had taken place.  When playing golf, you get used to having a caddie and ball boy - it's brill - you should try it. 

One thing I am not sure how I will get used to is that people you make friends with are suddenly going.  It is a weird life this diplomatic business.

So no doubt there is lots which I haven't mentioned, but if the first 6 months were are an onslaught to the senses then the next 6 will be even more.  What too look forward to - elections, war crimes verdicts, more hartals, more violence, bad weather and generally people being poorer off due to the chaos.  As they say a normal day in Dhaka - bring it on.