Old Dhaka (Puran Dhaka)

Well Readers, Madam and I have been talking about touring Old Dhaka.  There is always an excuse not to, whether its raining (the monsoon season has started), security situation, other engagements or general lack of planning and apathy.  So when the community liaison officer 'Mulligan' (that's his golf handle.  It did start off as Waltzing, but soon changed to his current one, when he suddenly started posting decent golf scores.  The jury is still out.  We are not sure how much he is paying his caddie, but we know he cannae count!)

So when Mulligan suggested a tour of old Dhaka, we jumped at it.  So with sweaty cheese sandwiches, tonnes of water and some home baking (of course) we joined 23 intrepid people, who had nothing else better to do on a Friday and set off in a convoy of minibuses into the unknown on a Friday morning (the quiet day in Dhaka), we hadn't realised it but we were in for a treat.  First stop Lalbagh Fort.

Lalbagh Fort

Now Madam and I had encountered the Fort somewhat briefly in November 2012 when we saw it being used as a backdrop for Sanglap, produced by the BBC World Service Trust.  Well now was the time to see it close up.  The fort is the heart of Old Dhaka and is surrounded by madness.  At the four corners of the fort are mosques, which creates an unusual cacophony when the call prayer to happens.  They are not in time and say something different.  Talk about a weird babble echo.

Anyhow, the fort has had many incarnations but was created in the Mughal period (1575) surviving numerous walls and of course was never completed due to lack of money.  It represents the unfulfilled dream of the Mughal Prince.  In the centre there is a mausoleum with audience hall to his daughter - Bibi Pari.  Opposite there is the practising mosque and on the other side there was his residence surrounded by amazing gardens, empty fountains and dried up tanks.

In the mid 19th century it was the main focus of the Sepoy Revolt, where British marines stormed the fort and killed many of the Sepoy's, throwing their bodies into the bathing and watering pools.  The place has housed the police headquarters which came to a bloody end in 1953 during the Pakistan regime.  The police were surrounded and gunned down.  Since the 1960's it has been allegedly under conservation.  Next stop religion.

Religion

The tour took us to the oldest mosque The Star Mosque (Tara Masjid) - well it is covered in stars, the state owned Hindu temple (Dhakeshwari Temple) and a christian Church in Bangladesh.  Now being prayer day, the mosque was busy, but we managed to see the small building with various rooms off it.  Due to it being holy day some of the women of the party were refused entry due to dress code.

The Hindu temple was a very much more a relaxed affair but with young and old, male and female taking part.  There was a lot of noise, and they all seemed to enjoying it.  The laugh was the car park outside was actually bigger than the temple!  The temple was a target of attack during the Liberation War in 1971 by the occupying Pakistani forces destroying a lot of it and murdering lots of people.

The gem of the of the religious stops was the Armenian Church, built by Armenians - funny that.  The Armenians were a key trader in the area from the 16th century in relation to silk and textiles.  This was abruptly stopped when the British arrived and they lost their dominance to the East India Company in 1757.  This little church / oasis in the middle of hi rise building and chaos was quite special.  The gardens were lush surrounded by the graveyard (supposedly 350 graves) and only opens two or three times a year for service.  The church thankfully is placed under Bangladeshi Government as a historical sight.

At this point the tour took a slight detour - excellent.  The choice was t walk to the riverside or take the jalopies.  Walking was chosen and we traipsed down to the port through Little India.

Little India (Chowk Bazaar)
This was an eye opener and a real feel to Old Dhaka.  It was crowded, narrow, rickshaws everywhere and sights to behold.  It was quiet today due to it being a Friday, but I hate to think how it would be like when it was a normal working day.

Dhaka Port / Boat Terminal (Sadarghat)
This was an odd place as it was the main place for ferries down the river which generally happened at night.  The ferries were three stories each taking around 2000 people on each floor.  The guide reckoned you could double that on same occasions.  Beside the ferries were the river taxis.    Supposedly around 50000 people use the facilities and work there every day.  The place was featured  on a BBC programme looking at a Brit working on the boats from Woolwich.  Iconic stuff me saw.  

At this point the rain started which was fine for us hardy Scots.  Other members of the party less attuned to head back leaving a small hard core to go for some tea before venturing to the Pink Palace and the Liberation War Museum.

This involved lots of counting, recounting, trying to extricate bags from minibuses and seemed to take longer than you would think.  It must have been the rain that's was dulling.  The guide new of a wee place for a cup of tea.  Now tea here is different to anywhere else.  It is served very sweet with carnation milk.  I could feel my rotting before it had arrived.  Due to prayer time all museums, cultural activities are closed from 12 to 3pm, hence the the pause in proceedings.  For there it was the Pink Palace.

Pink Palace (Ahsan Manzil)

The palace serves as a government office and trading centre by the British before being sold to the Dhaka nawab family in the mid 19th century as their private residence.  When they died off it was in disrepair until 1985 when it was restored.  Allegedly Lord Curzon (British Viceroy of India) stayed there regularly.  

The place is located just opposite the river with a once fantastic gardens.  Inside there is this odd snap shot to those who lived and partied in the place.  As usual the humidity and heat are having their toll and I am in no doubt that the artefacts will be lost in due course down to plain old bad curating - hey ho.

After this quick stop it was onto some more contemporary history of Bangladesh - the Liberation War Museum.

The Liberation War Museum
Now this place reminded me of the Checkpoint Charlie Museum.  The CCM was located in an apartment (best way to describe it) beside the the actual checkpoint charlie.  Lost of photos article, stories on bits of paper and stuck everywhere - all a bit haphazard but revealing of what the struggle and history of the location.  The LWM is very similar with a courtyard for a cafe.  you go into different rooms which details the build up, the war, the characters involved and immediate aftermath.  The photos reveal how women were heavily involved in the fighting (something which I hadn't appreciated) and also the mass death that took place.  Repercussions from that time are still being felt in the politics, war crimes tribunal and the make up of a Bangladeshi.

After this it was fighting our way back through the traffic, back to moon base or something like that.  A great day out and an eye opening to what is Old Dhaka and what else needs to be seen.  I can see this being revisited Readers.

Cyclone Mahasen - Its Started

Well readers I woke up this morning to heavy rain.  Not the usual downpour which is generally a quick shower and then everything gets back to normal.  Consistent heavy rain.  Ah just feels like home.

Now rain in Dhaka, never mind the rest of Bangladesh creates its own problems.  For starters walking about becomes hazardous.  With all the holes in the road, who knows what is a puddle or a six foot deep trench.   Driving is just as bad as you have everyone from walkers, to rickshaws, tuk-tuks, other drivers all vying for the sole piece of visible tarmac, I use that word lightly, in case the puddle harbours something more sinister.  Of course you are asking why not use the pavement.  Well readers where there are pavements, there are holes or more than likely low lying telephone and TV cables to get garroted on.  Everyday is an adventure and obstacle course!

So why the rain.  Well Cyclone Mahasen, named after a Sri Lankan King, they named it first and now realise they should not have named it after a king, even though he was instrumental in bringing irrigation to Sri Lanka, has formed in the Bay of Bengal and is bearing down on Bangladesh and Myanmar (Burma in old money).

What has been interesting in the build up to the storms arrival, are the amount of predictions of route, strength, perceived and potential damage, response etc.  All very mixed and conflicting I can assure you.  The one ray of hope in amongst this is that the Bangladeshi government have utilised all resources and are allegedly prepared for the storm and its aftermath.  The last couple of storms that have hit Bangladesh in the last 20 years have resulted in thousands dying and the country failing to respond to the enormity of the situation.

The UN, UKAid and the various NGO's are ready for what will hit Bangladesh but also Myanmar, where it could hit a region which already has over 50,000 displaced people from civil war.  The problem for Bangladesh is that most of the country is only a few metres above sea level.  So when you add extra water from the rain adding to a saturated ground never mind a predicted storm surge, then flooding is a real possibility - it just depends to what extent.

The next 48 hours or so will be telling.  Dhaka will have rain and some wind, from the cyclone fringes.  Further away will receive the impact from Cyclone Mahasen.  Fingers crossed readers.

Dhaka - 6 Months On

Well readers its the six month mark today and where has the time gone I hear you cry.  OK, for the record I can state that a few weeks of that have been in Malaysia, Nepal and recently New Delhi, but that's semantics.

So what have we grown accustomed to.  Well something never changes - Madam - 'I will leave in half an hour' is in fact see you in an hour and half and in many cases, traffic is not the blame.

You get used to disinfecting all fruit and veg.  Its amazing how you don't notice the taste of Milton sterilisation after a while.  Of course when we leave here, we will have not aged due to the formaldehyde that is sprayed on the veg/fruit (although they are supposed to be stopping that - mmm).  Water is out of a bottle or boiled then filtered - just a normal day.  The generator can be on and off all day with power coming and going - odd at first but you shrug your shoulders, wait 15 seconds and light returns.

I realised I needed to buy an Internet radio to get access to the rest of the world and more importantly Radio 4.  No I don't listen to The Archers, but it means I can keep up with local goss and my mate's jazz show.  Just in time for the Proms as well.  It felt like Christmas Day as a kid when it arrived through the mail bag - quite strange.  Mainstream culture is a bit short in supply here or if it does happen, it's so far away that a wee evening out is actually a day's expedition due to traffic, hartals or just plain practicalities of getting there..

My body aches - all over.  I have never done so much sport / exercise in my entire puff.  The tally so far is golf, cricket, swimming, gym, tennis and squash.  I'm knacked!  The annoying thing is, I haven't lost any weight.  The Doc says that's great as this posting is classified as a 10kg posting - humph.

Driving in Dhaka is unique.  The rules are, is that there are no rules.  This was made interesting yesterday driving in the rain and not knowing what was a puddle or a deep hole filled with water.  When walking about, a snorkel maybe necessary kit for doing the shopping.  Rickshaws are a pain when they don't make up their mind.  Mind you all drivers are a pain full stop.

The rains have started - early.  Will being a wee boy from Scotland that's nae trouble like.  However they are accompanied with Hollywood-esque style thunderstorms with spectacular  lightning and thunderclaps.  Its also warm rain - weird!  When it gets cold,  then it feels like a normal autumnal day in Blighty and fellow DC's (Diplomatic Colleagues) are feart of the cool pool in the winter - really pathetic!

You get used to sitting in traffic for no reason at all.  The barber giving you a head massage as part of your trim.  There are fruit and veg with unpronounceable names and best fried in curry powder as I am advised.  Yep ladies and gentleman they fry everything here - just like home - ahhhh.  You get used to no cheese, pork, sweets, cream, decent beer, Tunnocks, high speed Internet  etc - basically all the bad/good stuff depending on your point of view.

Living becomes part of your daily life in as much that everything needs planned, especially in relation to food.  No corner M&S here, which Madam relied on before I took pity on her.  Cafe culture is starting to develop in a Bangla sort of way.  You never get used to the long life milk in your cappuccino and decide its easier to stop drinking them.  Creativity is needed for cooking and chilling.  DVD's are in plentiful supply at very cheap rates.  Mind you I found out DVD's in Nepal are cheaper and better quality.  Me thinks I need to have a chat with our local supplier, irrespective whether they are knocked off or not.

Virtually everything gets recycled in some shape or form.  Case in point,  yesterday at the market, being the dutiful sustainable TS and haggling over my locally grown fruit and veg, the items were placed in paper bags.  On inspection at home, the bags were made from scrap paper which had various email addresses on, spreadsheets and replies to irate emails.  A shredder is now being pursued as we speak.

One thing is that when you get treated to a luxury, you really really appreciate it or take advantage of it before it goes.  The mail bag is infrequent which this year resulted in Christmas being put on hold for a number of people as the pressies were stuck in the UK mail centre as they had decided to finish early - ho ho ho - NOT.

The call to prayer happens constantly and you eventually fail to hear it, especially at 5am.  Mind you it is in that confusing stage where all the mosques do different times - not sure why, but it can bend your mind a bit.  Also the call to prayer speakers are right beside the ninth tee on the Army Golf Course - not good for the concentration.

Events are a highlight - even the monthly pub quiz!  Dinner parties are just a normal state of affair and excuse for anything.  Party decorators are a must for big events which either results in the flagrant abuse of health and safety rules as we know it for the erection of whatever or if in doubt over what decor to choose, just cover everything in un-earthed fairy lights.  I mean everything, trees, buildings, roads etc

I have started learning Bangla, which is quite amusing considering the trouble I have with English. Your car has to be kept clean - that I find very challenging!  No-one is ever at the other end of Skype even though their profile says they are on - please log off people - very confusing.  Six hours time difference just screws everything up.  All invites happen so late that in one instance we received the invite after the event had taken place.  When playing golf, you get used to having a caddie and ball boy - it's brill - you should try it. 

One thing I am not sure how I will get used to is that people you make friends with are suddenly going.  It is a weird life this diplomatic business.

So no doubt there is lots which I haven't mentioned, but if the first 6 months were are an onslaught to the senses then the next 6 will be even more.  What too look forward to - elections, war crimes verdicts, more hartals, more violence, bad weather and generally people being poorer off due to the chaos.  As they say a normal day in Dhaka - bring it on.

Its Raining

'The Dhaka Siege' - maybe not. But....

Images courtesy of The Daily Star - article http://www.thedailystar.net/beta2/news/hefajat-men-torch-vandalise-50-govt-buses/

Delhi - The Visit

OK - Madam has a big pow wow in Delhi and because of the ignominy of leaving the TS A.I.D. recently, at the first opportunity she said come to Delhi.

What started off as a straight forward plan got changed very quickly by the powers that be.  I had to make my own way there and sort myself out, with the hope that Madam is available in the evening. Of course this was to take place  - on my birthday - yep readers - pseudo AID (Delhi).

So first impressions.  Well the traffic stops at traffic lights and the police actually enforce the regulations.  This was realised 20 mins after being collected with my driver straying into a pedestrian crossing area.  He got a severe talking to with a potential ticket cum slap across the wrist.  

No rickshaws are allowed on main roads; the tuk-tuks are minus the cage with characterful drivers; the traffic actually moves; there is space which meant it took forever to get anywhere and they are so scared at losing tourism, there is a policeman with a gun at every turn, or that's how it seems.  Add to that a metro/tube/underground which is practically brand new and requires everyone to go through airport style security to just get into the station.  The one big problem, the stops/stations are nowhere you want them to be resulting in between 2km - 5km walks to get to any sights in a 35-40C heat - great!  So far I averaged 3 litres of water just during the day.

Day 1 was to visit India Gate, an amazing memorial to the fallen - closed.  I found out after chatting to 3 Indians from Mumbai it was closed because of a demo (bit like Dhaka) due to a recent horrific issue involving a 5 year old.  Next stop - the National Museum.  In style of course, half the galleries were closed and no mention whatsoever of colonial rule.  Add to that, the cafe, 'a fantastic haven for a refreshment' (so the guidebook says), hadn't seen the light of day for who knows how long.  I assume it was open when the Commonwealth Games were on in 2010.

Then the highlight - the secretariat area Rajpath which was designed by Edward Lutyens and Herbet Baker when tasked to create New Delhi (done more triumphantly than the new town in Edinburgh.  Dig dig - well I am a Glaswegian)  - awesome. At least this has been left untouched with amazing use of space and avenues leading to central points.   The day ended with a visit to Humayun's Tomb - something which the Indian Government is now starting to do up and look after.  This was quite special.  Of course no-where near any public transport, but worth the walk and the opportunity to sit in the gardens, rehydrate and see the splendour.  Oh by the way - there are no eateries, coffee shops etc anywhere near any tourist attraction - be prepared!

Day 2 was troublesome.  No ATM's worked, stroppy ticket person at the metro, a 3km hike to the Red Fort.  Special and sad is the phrase.  A place which in its hey dey must have been quite something.  The British destroyed some of it and built the Victorian barracks in a colonial style (quite something) in there own way.  The prob is, its been left to crumble and decay slowly.  So much of the fort is overgrown, the fountains haven't seen water in a long time and this air of sadness hung over the place.  In tourist terms, this is a jewel, but a travesty in the way it is being treated.

The next stop - look at Old Delhi - after some time, my sense of humour wained - this was a more spread out Old Dhaka.  The next challenge was to find the Gandhi Museum - not straight forward.  No where near any public transport.  After a metro and tuk-tuk I was presented with a tired large house with even tireder (is that a word) curators never mind exhibits of Gandhi's life.  For someone who is the true father of the nation, I wonder whether he is still revered as he was. Across from the museum was this marble edifice to where Gandhi was cremated at Rajghat.  The only place I know where you have to remove your shoes to walk about it, and then have to pay to get your shoes back.

The next day was slower due to Madam having to work when she should have been chilling, not realising that nothings is where you want it, fighting your way through a queue to get a metro ticket, only then to fight your way on and off a train.  However it did end with me getting my birthday tea at the Orient Express in the Taj Hotel - highly recommend it!  An Orient Express dining carriage in the middle of the bar at the hotel.  Weird and wonderful.

The highlight of the trip was visiting the Taj Mahal.  It was agreed that a guided tour was essential for this bit.  I am glad we did.  For starters it was at least three and half hours a way driving on a new express way which no-one uses as sit is a toll road.  Quite strange driving along with little other traffic on a four lane motorway passing by new cities and I do mean new cities being constructed.  The TM itself was wonderful - a true wonder of the world and thankfully something the Indian government looks after.  No we did not have the obligatory photo on the seat made famous by Princess Diana - there was a large queue and it was now over 40C.  A quick tour round the Agra Fort to tick it off and then it was four hours back.

At least I can say I have seen Delhi - not sure if I would rush back unless it was for shopping and only for a quick trip.  I do hope the Indian Government get their act together regarding their national treasures and tourism per se.   

Hey ho - arriving back in Dhaka we were met by our driver accompanied with a police escort and close protection.  Life was not straight forward and if nothing else brought us both back to reality.  

Tragedy - Again!

Well readers if the country isn't suffering enough with the petty political fighting going on, war crimes tribunals and general hard line islamic pressure which is hampering business and the people, a new tragedy hit Bangladesh - a building in Savar which housed a number of garment factories collapsed.

Well it has happened again.  A building which had 2/3 extra floors built onto it illegally, and from what can initially ascertained had illegal generators on upper floors, basically shook the building down.  Initial counts are that over 900 people are dead.  How?

In late November 2012, a fire in the Tazreen garment factory killed over 100 people mainly women, which then was regraded as the tragedy.  In that instance, the building of course did not have the requisite fire exists etc and placed the whole aspect of safety onto the radar of the government and further afield.  Obviously no-one took any heed.

Roll onto April 2013 and the whole sector and country is in the international spotlight.  The international community offered specialist aid and support but that was turned down by the government.  Cracks were seen in the building the day previous, but managers made people work on.  The building was cleared by engineers days previously.  Floors were added illegally.  The litany of negligence and incompetence mixed with corruption is becoming endless and the sector seems to be rife with it.  Questions need to be asked of all levels of the regulatory regime never mind the supply chain.  

Bangladeshi's I know are angry and want to know what can be done.  They are sick of the tiresome political infighting and corruption.  This is pervading all corners of society. This story will no doubt get worse.  Another day in Dhaka?  Hopefully after this no-more.

Happy New Year - Bengali Style

Well its April readers and that means one thing in Bangladesh - Bengali New Year or Pohela Boishakh on the 14th April.  The Bengali year is now 1420 - I dunno either.  Its either the culture is over 500 years behind the conventional calendar or they do things back to front and in fact they are a year ahead of us and its 2014.  Eh?

Well, the Bengali calendar is loosely tied with the Hindu Vedic solar calendar, based on the Surya Siddhanta. As with many other variants of the Hindu solar calendar, the Bengali calendar commences in mid-April of the Gregorian year. The first day of the Bengali year therefore coincides with the mid-April new year in Mithila, Assam, Burma, Cambodia, Kerala, Manipur, Nepal, Odisha, Sri Lanka, Tamil Nadu and Thailand.  Clear?  Well you did ask.

So how do they celebrate it then I hear you cry?  Well colour colour and more colour, with parties with your chums during the day with lots of sweet things.  The colour is Red and you see everyone wearing the obligatory red.  White is also acceptable.  So why does this involve the TS I hear you cry?

Well Madam and I were invited to a Bangladeshi New Year party by a charming couple.  This meant we needed the right dress.  Madam a Sari and myself a Punjabi.  The saga starts...

Phase One - the clothes.  Madam's sari, is not as simple as popping into a shop finding one in the right size and purchasing it - oh how I wish it was that simple.  The challenge was laid and Madam's executive assistant - Little Big Boss (LBB) (well she is four foot something or like that) took control and duly bossed us around going to various shops for numerous bits, material, bling etc and then end up finally at a tailor to get measured and get it duly turned into something special.  

I am not sure if LBB enjoyed me being there.  I was enjoying the whole choosing the fabric bit, and she seemed to not like my input and discussion over whether one colour was better than the other.  I will need to speak to Madam when she next does her appraisal.   Anyhow, with me, far more simpler - find the shop, get one in my size and low and behold I was kitted out.  That was phase one completed readers.

Phase Two and the most critical - Madam realised on the morning of the event - how do you put a sari on.  Now even judicious use of You Tube, websites and lots of safety pins resulted in a stressed Madam having to make phone calls to various salons (well they were closed as it was New Years Day) to assist in the process.  In actual fact most salons will provide this service.  Well after gnashing of teeth and persuading the Nordic Club to assist, even though they were not sure themselves, all was sorted - phew!

Phase Three - The Party.  Well it was a brill party - a very family and friend gathering with lots of Bengali people.  It was our first proper Bengali party.  Ironically I got chatting to a Bengali who immediately spotted I was Scottish.  He then proceeded to tell me he used to work for an old family Scottish company Finlays Teas as their tea taster, buyer etc.  only to return to Bangladesh a few years ago and take up a new job - small world!  He know Scotland well.  He knew whisky very well!

I can honestly say it was a very Happy New Year indeed and has already got me thinking me about next year!  Everyone Pohela Boishakh.

Nepal - An Ancient Land

Well Madam and I (the TS) went off for a wee week to Nepal.  Well It is about an hour from Dhaka and if you are that close then why not.  The plan was to do some sightseeing, chillax and mainly get a change of scene.  I had been 3 months in Dhaka and even though the place has a certain charm with or without hartals etc – I had lost my sense of humour.  Of course Madam had already had respite when I was posted A.I.D.

Anyhow – the adventure began by taking the local national air carrier – supposedly for intrepid people only.  Allegedly they are never on time, never fly etc etc etc.  Well I can honestly say we left on time and arrived back on time, and the service was'ne that bad.  I think the effect of a newly appointed UK CEO who had learnt his time at BA, may have had an influence.  Who knows.  Mind you as part of the in-flight catering, I am still at a loss what the dessert was – there and back!  Any suggestions please let me know.

Annapurna Hills

Now the plan was to stay a few days in Kathmandu with a Diplomatic Chum (DC) of Madam’s then head off to Pokhara at the foot of the Annapurna hills beside Lake Phewa.  The DC lived in Patan, south of Kathmandu, which in fact was a blessing, as we did venture into the centre Ktm, to find out it was a bit like Dhaka in some ways.  Add the additional complexity of an interim government initiative of widening every road in the place irrespective whether there is a building there or not and then forget to complete the process.  It beats small and large holes dotted about the roads in Dhaka, which are now being stuffed with branches, so when they fill up with water, they give a slight indication of where you may disappear.  In Nepal - they just bulldozed the road completely. 

Kathmandu

So on the first few hours of arriving in country DC and Madam were swapping the minutiae of various work things – so much for a holiday.  There was a surreal moment during the week when I was sitting between them whilst they were swapping emails and discussing what their replies would be back to HQ.  We were supposed to be watching a DVD, which I then duly chose.  I can honestly it say it wasn't brilliant, but hey that that will teach them!

So what did we see I hear you cry.  Well there are 3 ancient cities, Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur.  Each of them built to compete with each other and prevent power being centralised so to speak.  We were spoilt.  If you have a chance to go to Nepal – forget the Kathmandu Durbar Square.  It looks and feels impressive, but when you see Patan then Bhaktapur, then Ktm is the poorer cousin. 

Patan

At the Patan museum, was the best Nepali Thali I had the whole week – worth it.  Beer – yes please.  You can walk into a restaurant or café in Nepal and order alcohol.  After extensive research the whole week, my opinion is that coming first is Gorkha, followed by Everest, then Kathmandu and finally Nepal Ice.  Well one did have to research properly to ensure whether different locations and environmental conditions affected the beer or not.

In terms of public transport – there isn’t any really.  There are the usual small buses held together by who knows what, but the main mode of transport is either motorbikes or taxis.  Now I use the word lightly when I say taxi.  Yes they do transport from A to B and charge you for the pleasure (again that’s too strong a word – pleasure), but you get there.  One taxi we encountered was actually missing a dashboard, most of the interior fittings and probably leaked more fuel than it actually consumed.  In addition it was started with a screwdriver stuck in the ignition, and I hadn’t even mentioned the bodywork (or lack of it) – Madam was no chuffed.  I did feel slight sorry for them with the state of the roads, where a 4x4 would be more appropriate rather than something resembling an 1980’s small Ford Fiesta in good condition never mind any other state.

Lake Phewa

Pokhara was an all together a different experience.  The heart of adventure land, was this chilled out town with fabby food nestled on the edge of Lake Phewa.  I can see Madam and I coming back here, even if it is to do some trekking.  During out time in Pokhara it was  the Hindu festival of Holi.  Everybody throws paint at each other and it is essentially a festival and celebration of colour to mark the start of spring.  It was amusing walking down the street to see dogs covered in pink spots, or cows (yes cows and bulls) ambling down the road with some warlike markings in fluorescent paint.  It was the first time I have ever seen the full length of main road looking like a surreal smudged rainbow.

Baggage Claim

The domestic airport to get too Pokhara or Everest was a ramshackle of buildings.  When coming back from Pkh the bus that picked us up from the airplane had a trailer attached to it for the luggage.  It then took us to a side gate of the airfield where there was a low table by which they piled up the luggage for you to collect – who says there is no customer service.  The one thing that struck me about the airport, was that it must be a massive buzz in the place when all the parties come to do trekking and climb Everest at the height of the season Oct-Jan.  I think it would be something worth experiencing.

Our flight to Everest was cancelled due to cloud.  Next time.  The end of the week saw yours truly attending an informal dinner with Madam and the DC who had some VIP’s in town.  The only consolation was sitting on a terrace looking at the hills as the sun set.  What was talked about – who knows.  I was sitting beside a guy who came out of semi-retirement to help the UN in Nepal and who had been in Dhaka just after the liberation war in the early 70’s – interesting stuff and small world!

Foxy & Snowy

So memories from Nepal – well having to put a jumper on in the evening – you do miss that readers.  Staying with a really nice and hospitable DC who has two mad dogs (Snowy and Foxy) and seeing / hearing about the reality and specialness of an ancient land.  Roll on next time.

Lake Phewa at Sunset

The Uneasy Calm

Well readers this has been an odd week.  It started with the usual diatribe from political parties slugging it out supported with a two day hartal to start with and further ones scheduled in the week.  Of course there were regrettably deaths, violence and the general mayhem.  It was odd walking home on Sunday eve (our Monday, in case you had forgotten) down empty streets with a gusty wind blowing the dust around.  It was a bit like walking into Dodge city.  The only thing missing would have been some tumbleweed floating past, or because it is Dhaka, a rickshaw freewheeling past with no rider.

Why the hartals?  Pretty easy to explain.  The BNP held a rally and coincidentally the police raided the headquarters, arrested the various leaders and allegedly found 'cocktails'.  These are not the usual martini's or wallbangers, which on hearing cocktails, my ears pricked up, but sadly mistaken.  No these were Molotov cocktails / bomblets.  Anyhow the BNP demanded their leaders release which didn't happen and low and behold more hartals.  Supposedly when the BNP were in power they did the same to the opposition - the Awami league - Tit for tat then.  That's politics in Bangladesh  for you readers.

Anyhow the rhetoric was ramping up along with the temperature and humidity and there was definitely an air of something about to happen or could kick off.  Not immediately but definitely in the future.  However, regrettably but thankfully the country's President Zillur Rahman died and was laid to rest today. He'd had a long illness which created complications just over a week ago resulting him to seek treatment in Singapore where he died on Wednesday.

His death resulted in defusing the situation, the BNP postponing their latest hartal and allowing the country to show unity.  The irony is that the President, one for getting people to talk to each other without bloodshed, lying in state meant that the two political leaders had to be in the same room together to pay their respects - of course they never talked to each other.  The awful thing is that the BNP have never sat in the parliament and acted like an opposition party.  So democracy in action - maybe not.  Supposedly there was a recent poll and the two parties are neck and neck which is quite concerning.  No doubt more to come on that one in the future.

However when the President died there was three days of national mourning announced with Thursday, the return of the body, a national holiday.  Not sure on what to expect, all proposed golfing was cancelled.  It was odd - there was a calmness to Dhaka.  At present I am still not sure whether people cared or not, knew he was or wasn't etc etc.  but on TV, you could see people were out in force to pay their respects.

Next week will be the start of something new and the process to elect a new President underway.  Whether that will maintain the defused situation or the President's passing just merely pressed the pause button for the status quo to return next week - who knows.  Just now though there is, in Dhaka, an uneasy calm.

A.I.D.

Well readers last week I was A.I.D. - yes you have got it in one - Abandoned in Dhaka.  Madam has decided to head back home partly to attend granny's 105th birthday but also have a wee jolly.  Yours truly the TS, was A.I.D. for a week.  When this was quietly pointed out to Madam prior to her going (I am never one to make a fuss), she quickly responded, if you want to come we will just book flights.  Let's just say, this was never asked from the outset by Madam when she booked her flights some weeks ago!  Her response was ' I didn't think you wanted to come'.

I can tell you readers, all my other fellow TS's in the dip community were horrified!!! However life went on and what a busy week it was.  In between trying to fit in a game of golf, some tennis lessons, which I can honestly say is slowly improving, even to the extent that the backhand is progressing more quickly than the forehand (go figure) and my serves actually hitting the box, a future champion is in the making me thinks - watch out Andy Murray old bean.

Life was actually more fraught and frenetic in reality.  There was the liaising with contractors as to how they could install more air conditioning and electrical sockets - supposedly not an easy task - we will see on that one.  Actually as I am writing this, they are supposed to be here causing chaos, but of course in true Dhaka style - no show.  The concept of customer care in regards to time keeping and actually delivering what you require is somewhat wanting.  Anyhow, after realising satellite TV can't be installed (not allowed to put dishes on the side of the building - might spoil the look.  My response - look around Dhaka.  They also can't place them on the roof - that's someones penthouse), even after chasing the respective people for weeks, the cable TV man came.  Straightforward?  NO!

At first it took them two engineers to work out how to tune the tele - they didn't succeed - I did it.  Then once they installed it one room, they tried to do it in room two,  the most important one ladies and gentlemen - the TV room.  After two days of faffing, they have declared that they think the cable in the wall is damaged and it is now back to the landlord / developer for their resolution - humph.

Add to that a leaking pipe in one of the bedrooms due to some leaky gate valve and the cleaner (or known as bearer) asking for a pay rise and a loan in the same week -  it was certainly not dull.  Madam of course oblivious to it all and none the wiser.  On her return, there was the usual feint acknowledgement of the various incidents and then accordingly dismissed.  So if you are a fellow TS reading this - wait till you get A.I.D. - my sympathy!

PS - Happy Commonwealth Day today

PPS - being a Glaswegian, today is also very special.  Traditionally on Commonwealth Day, the Queen's Baton is handed to the host nation for the relay which will visit all Commonwealth countries before it finally arrives at the Commonwealth Games opening ceremony, which if course will take place in Glasgow 2014.  Today the international route will be announced - exciting!

More information about the Commonwealth and the Day

Oddball Life

Well the TS has been snapping so to speak.  I did think about taking picturesque reportage style photographs and then I asked myself why?!  Why not show the readers of oddball life in Dhaka.  Below is a wee snapshot.

Construction  - A Big Hole

Construction  - Foundation Preparation

Construction  - Foundation Preparation

The Barbers - Cut and Shave Anyone?
Less than £5 for the package.

Somone Using Their Initiative and Directing Traffic

A Typical Traffic Jam

Building A Marquee

A Rickshaw Pitstop

 

Someone Protecting Their Self From the Rain

A View from Banani Bridge

 The Nordic Club Cinnamon Roll