The Dhaka Symphony

The Call to Prayer

There I was readers lying there at 5.30 this morning pondering my navel as an old music school teacher would say to me.  Well it was a music class and there was only so much of trying to play the recorder anyone could do before anything became more or less interesting instead.  Anyhow at 5.30 am there is the morning call for prayer and it struck me - do all cities have their own noise?  There own very sound that is unique to them and could be described as their own heartbeat?

Now being located close to the central mosque in Gulshan, means we are in direct 'firing' line for all the call to prayers - yes there are more than one and depending on which mosque it could range from four to seven.  Yes I would like to point out that Madam failed to notice said mosque when she was doing the apartment recce!  Thankfully the call is short and you can nod back off to sleep.

However this morning I noticed in the distance all the other calls from the other mosques and how they were all uniquely different, never mind sounding different and being of a variety lengths.  A short while later there was the occasional bell ringing from rickshaws before the noise built up into rush hour.  With all this in mind and my inner classical musician eagerly waiting to write his first symphony the TS, yours truly indeed reckons he got it written by morning coffee today.  

Here's how it goes:

Movement 1 (Allegro) - Dhaka Awakens

Starts off slow with the call to prayers starting off one by one (in the right key of course) followed by the jingly bells and toots form the Tuk-Tuks.  This then builds up into a fast pace with horns from the cars, bells, toots and generally the fast pace of life of Dhaka.  People missing cars, cars missing cars, cars missing rickshaws etc  People selling tupperware, books (latest edition allegedly, cheaper than you can get elsewhere), maps and even tea towels.  This culminates in a crescendo of sorts to end with the call to prayer (mid-morning one - in the right key and in harmony) and life has begun in Dhaka.

Movement 2 (Adagio) - Life Takes Place
This movement slower to the first, but focusing on the people of Dhaka as they go about their business whilst the bells, toots and horns still take place but are less frenetic.  Again ending with a call to prayer (well it is after lunch you know).

Movement 3 (Scherzo) - The Madness Begins
Starting with the late afternoon call to prayer, the traffic madness begins as the noise is worse than before as everybody is up and contributing to the chaos.  The traffic gets stuck and suddenly a 30 min journey becomes two hours.  The queue of rickshaws looking for fares never mind clogging up the streets is worse at this time.  Again it ends with the call to prayer - early evening.

Movement 4 (Allegro) - Dhaka Slows
The movement starts fast and ends calmly as the day has finished and all the noise subsides ending with a toot toot and the final bell ending the symphony.

So readers - what do you think?  Any takers?  Anyone willing to give a grant to investigate it further?

Only in Dhaka - Rooftop Neon Party

Is that the Doc in the foreground?

Had a surreal moment on Friday night readers.  When normally i would be regaled in my usual tartan attending a Burns Supper (it was the Bard's birthday after all), there I was standing on a rooftop, with the place dressed fantastically in chiffon and lights, and me in my hi-viz vest dancing away at rooftop neon party!  It was a going away party for two dip chums - well that's what they said.


It was a surreal moment with many pushing the boat and wearing something neon.  Even the Doctor was dressed in his day-glo tracksuit which you would more likely see a groom wearing in the east end of Glasgow..  I think someone should check whether he is on medication as the most concerning thing was not that he walked the streets in it and danced around like a loon , but more concerningly he possessed or even got it shipped across from over 5000 miles away from Bonnie Scotland.  They obviously saw him coming in that shop!

What was more surreal, that everyone at the party thought this was normal and only expected such a thing to take place in Dhaka.  One person who will be leaving for other shores in the year stated that Dhaka has a unique charm and madness which is just not replicated elsewhere.  Well readers, on that note who knows what the TS will be attending.  Watch this space....

Reality Starts - Living in Dhaka

Well the day has finally arrived and Madam and I will be moving into the new pad.  I say 'new' loosely as it has been deconstructed, remodelled and rewired.  As well as being a TS (Trailing Spouse), I am now an interior designer, lurve choosing soft furnishings, expert packer of all things (this being the third time we have moved in less than 3 months) and generally the point of contact for all things 'homemaking'.  One concern I do have is that it is actually curtailing the golf activity and going for a swim (honestly - not missing that one - that's exercise), but hopefully normal service shall resume shortly - cannae wait.

Now Madam was running true to form - nothing like consistency and continuity for the TS.  Madam was going away on a business trip - convenient!  I did raise a smile when the drive to the business trip was allegedly curtailed by a small riot and some tear gas - excuses!  Nothing in the press...  Anyhow it was up to yours truly to pack our life - 4 suitcases and a tonne of food.  The move was as painless as can be.  The problem was going to be the following day - the arrival of the heavy baggage.

Day 2 of the move saw 71 boxes of various shapes and sizes magically congregate in the lounge like a pyramid for some god.  Where does one start?  The labels on the box didn't actually match the contents.  The packers offered to unpack which I quickly declined.  I mean I hadn't a clue where I was putting the stuff, so why should I have 6 people asking me in a foreign language where it was going.  On top of that, there were a range of boxes containing crockery etc which follows the Head of Office.  Madam has another thing coming if she thinks I am cooking for 50 people!

What was quickly realised on opening the boxes, was the lack of personal ornaments / object d'art / curios.  Yep the packing was too practical in Glasgow and all that kind of stuff has been left there - typical.  Never mind Madam has now got it into her head that 'we' can go out and buy more stuff - mmmmmm.

So of course when Madam arrived back home, it was mostly all done - what a surprise!  People kept saying it must be like Christmas again, finding stuff you had forgotten you had packed and there it was etc etc.  I look at as a huge sigh of relief - life in Dhaka can actually start now and let reality set in!

PS Just realised a big problem - left the corkscrew in the UK.  It is a double big problem as we are living in a dry country - don't tell Madam until I come up with a plan.

Oncoming Traffic? Easy!

It has reached that stage when the TS (Trailing Spouse) had to fill up the car with petrol.  Now this is no easy task in the demonic driving of Dhaka.  Now most expats have their driver to do the deed and and just basically handover cash, get the receipt and nothing more is said.  Madam has yet to choose a driver hence, I am now learning all the bad habits of survival on Dhaka driving.

Now, having driven for over 20 years, you would think what the heck am I moaning about.  The car is a right  wheeled drive - same as home.  The traffic allegedly drives on the right / correct side of the road and ultimately my car is bigger than the others.  Well fellow readers I wish it was all that simple.

Your first problem as previously mentioned in a previous blog (Traffic) - there are no rules.  If you want to drive up the wrong way on the other side of the road - not a problem.  Rickshaws and Tuk-Tuks do it all the time.  There is no concept of lanes.  For instance the 'motorway' is a three lane road.  On a good day, the traffic might be nice and operate as three lanes but normally its five lanes.  The concept of roundabouts are a new phenomenon  so the question of 'right of way?' is not in their parlance; and most frustrating of all - to get onto the other side of any road, there are no slipways, roundabouts, side roads etc.  No no no -- you just find a gap in the central reservation and do a U-turn.  There is no point having your heart in your mouth, white knuckles on the steering wheel or just panicking.  Just shrug the shoulders and hope for the best is the most appropriate policy.

So after many discussions with people on where the easiest petrol station was to get to, it was time to venture out.  I chose a Friday morning - good call most said - the roads would be quiet!  Dhaka had obviously decided not this time when I was going out.  I found the right break and did my Uy - ok so far.  Identified the petrol station on the other side of the road and duly had to find another break in the central reservation to do another Uy.  Ok so far.  

I duly pulled into the petrol station onto what could be described as a 'forecourt' with a motley crew of cars, tuk-tuks and something described as a minibus.  After lots of pointing and stating what I wanted, I was duly advised that to get to the petrol pump, I would need to exit the 'forecourt', do a u-turn into on-coming traffic and re-enter the petrol station.  A new twist to driving in Dhaka!  All I can say it was a bit touch and go, but thankfully some truck managed to botch up getting round some rickshaw providing the opportunity for a u-turn and then sneak into the forecourt at the petrol pump.  Getting out was just as bad - one had to reverse into oncoming traffic.  Again some rickshaw and a tuk-tuk were having a contra ton leaving a gap for a nifty manoeuvre to escape the 'carnage'.  

Now getting home. Madam, asked how it went and ended up saying 'that's nice dear'.  So when anyone again moans about traffic, try driving into oncoming traffic just to enter a petrol station - I say - Easy!

It’s a Dogs Life

Well we are not in our new abode yet – lots of issues such as having to rewire the place to bring it line with UK electrical standards never mind Bangladeshi ones.  Install air conditioning, actually put a kitchen in to be honest, general maintenance and solving problems which should not have been there from that start.  I was told this was normal when a property is taken over for diplomats etc.  What was more concerning, that this is a brand new building with the paint still wet and all this work still had to be carried out.  I think it is called the joys of design and construction in Dhaka.

Anyhow I digress.  We have a visitor staying this week -  a chocolate Labrador called Minstrel (a bit of typecasting there me thinks).  So why he is staying you cry?  Well, the a Diplomatic colleague needed to go out of town on business and failed to mention to Mrs Diplomatic colleague that she would be going with him.  This resulted in Mr Dc chatting to Madam to see if we could look after the waif for a couple of days.  Madam, of course has been nagging the TS for months / years for a ‘little doglet’ – I know, I cringe as well and please don’t ask.  Delightedly she said yes and then truly informed me.

Minstrel with Rudolph

Well Minstrel arrived on Sunday with his bed (now becoming a floor ornament as he has learnt a bad habit from a previous sleepover elsewhere – the sofa), his food - changed days when I had a dog as a kid.  All it is a bag of biscuits with a touch of water – no tins of dog food etc.  His toys (which included a rather fetching teddy bear like Rudolph the reindeer which he would take with him to bed each night), bowls and a big stick (more later).  Minstrel would be staying the week – Madam failed to tell me.  To just rub salt into the proverbial, Madam was out most evenings this week, so it is up to the TS to entertain, feed, walk and generally be the convivial host for Minstrel.  Now you see why I am have been resisting a ‘little doglet’ – it would be like that all the time.  All aside, he is a big softie and a gorgeous looking dog and of course the TS would be more than willing to look after him whenever – that’s not the point though and don’t tell Madam.  A pretence is needed.

Now walking a dog in Dhaka is an unusual thing.  The only people who have dogs as pets are expats.  Generally the dogs that do exist here are feral and roam the streets – the first problem.  Secondly the pavements don’t generally exist and you have to dodge traffic, rickshaws and tuk-tuks whilst walking, never mind the people who seem to be on the whole, scared of dogs.  The big stick is needed to fend off the stray dogs and kamikaze cats. 

One doesn’t realise the number of dogs roaming the place until they all start coming out of the wood work irrespective of the ones sitting behind gates.  Apart from having another set of eyes, a guard dog would be helpful just to take pooch out for walkies. 

One of the big conundrums I keep asking when walking – do they have any planning law?  You have maisonettes which would be typical in middle England, to some Mediterranean style architecture followed by some hotch potch of something alongside a sleek glass apartment block.  As well as the various construction sites dotted about with their very own breach of health & safety rules as we know it.  This is all within a 12 block area.  So when Minstrel departs at the end of the week, I can honestly say I have seen more of the area and lots more of the weird constructions called houses in Dhaka.  Minstrel of course is oblivious to all of this focussing on the next sniff and where his dinner is coming from – it is true – it is a dog’s life!

Baby Its Cold Outside

Happy New Year and all the best for 2013.  After surviving Malaysia on holiday Madam and I (the TS) arrived back in Dhaka to be confronted with noise, dust, traffic, and general Dhakaness coupled with a severe lack of temperature.  Now being a hardy Scot, this wasn't too much of an issue.  I mean the temperature was probably a dry Scottish summer - I emphasize dry by the way.  However after 30C+ temperatures in Kuala Lumpur, it was a bit of shock.

Since getting back, the TS has had to don his jumper.  Yep it is cold - allegedly the coldest temperature in 45 years  Not bad since Bangladesh has been only in existence since December 1971.  No ice yet and it hasn't stopped me from going in the pool (not heated - why would you) which is akin to the cold plunge at the Western Baths, I hasten to add, but it is a bit nippy.  

The big problem is the current accommodation which is still transit.  That is when they don't know where to put you and they stick you in a holding 'cell' before they have identified the 'right' place or more realistically what they can afford whether it is 'right' or not. Apart from the lack of sun this current place gets (stuck in between 3 construction sites on 3 sides and pointing in the wrong direction on the vacant side), stone floors, myriads of air conditioning units, the flat is colder inside than outside.  Last night, Madam and I were on the sofa under a blanket to watch tv - it is not as romantic as it sounds I can assure you. The things a TS has to dutifully do!  Even our cleaner was saying it was cold, no matter how hard she dusted!  Maybe not hard enough then - anyhow.

When you wonder around, the Dhaka residents have taken to ingenious ways of wearing clothing to keep warm.  If they have them they wear their wooly hat under any official hat they have to wear - definitely not one for the fashionistas amongst you.  If not, then rather than tying their scarf around their neck, it is tied around their head to keep their ears warm.  All that is missing is a tartan shopping trolley, and they wouldn't look out of place with the old dears walking down the street in the UK.

Thankfully Bangladesh has not been hit as hard with the cold weather unlike India where people are dying, but I am not sure how long that will be before it happens here.  This part of the world, they are just not geared up for it, even when it is in the low teens.  So when normally you would scoff at such temperatures, here when they say it is cold, then it is life threatening.  Fingers crossed it warms up and I don't have to keep warming up Madam!

Penang - The Festive Tour of Malaysia

Madam had decided that I needed more immersion into Malaysian culture before Christmas and it was decided (allegedly together) we would go to Penang.  Now the original plan was to fly back to Kuala Lumpur to then fly to Penang.  madness I thought - we could just hop on the ferry and take the trip to Penang from Langkawi which drops off round the corner from our abode.  Oh i wish it was that simple.

The online booking system, was merely a reservation of the ticket.  You had to find the ticket booth and dodge all the stalls selling corn - yes weird I know.  You then get on the 'ferry'.  I use the term loosely as what you see on the website is not what you get.  The concept of health & safety just hasn't been translated here.  All fire exists are blocked with luggage, who knows how many lifebelts they had, if any and god it was bumpy.

Clan Jetties

At last we were in Penang, an island which the British held (WW2) until the Japanese came in behind them (yes it does sound like a panto) and they then thought it prudent to leave asap back to Singapore.  The place is a hotch potch of cultures, nationalities, foods and madness.   You have a 19th Century colonial style St Georges Anglican church sitting close by to a hawker market -  a place selling all types of cuisine.  The budget did not extend to staying at the E&O but we did sample their delights one day - not bad I say.  Another day we went on a mad bus journey (over 90 mins) to see the bottom of the island and the 'war museum'.

Queen Victoria
Diamond Jubilee Clock

Let;s just say an entrepreneurial chappie saw this ruin on top of a hill which used to be the British fortress to defend the island.  It has been turned into a museum, cum paint ball park.  The problem is it isn't really a war museum.  Interesting stuff around but the 30 min hike up the hill to get to the entrance would dampen anyone's enthusiasm.  Fort Cornwallis on the other hand was quiet interesting being the first port of call for the British and how they conducted their foreign policy with trade agreements all round Asia - quite amazing considering most people couldn't do that now a days.

What was amazing was the number of temples everywhere.  Madam seem to have a thing for the temples and  reckoned we could knock most of them off the list.  The most spectacular was the Pinang Peranakan Mansion  Ironically, in a lot of the temples, including the PPM, the iron pillars holding them up were made in Glasgow - ahh.  

Christmas Eve arrived and there was Madam and I standing in Penang airport waiting for our next part of our Festive Tour of Malaysia - Singapore!

Langkawi - The Festive Tour of Malaysia

Madam and I went to Malaysia and Singapore for Christmas and New Year.  3 whole weeks of scintillating conversation with Madam - how will we both cope?  Madam was knacked and needed a break.  2012 was a hard year irrespective of starting a new job as the 'Big Boss' over 5000 miles away, she desperately need a break.  

The itinerary for the 3 weeks - snoozing at a beach resort in Langkawi for 5 days, then taking the ferry to Penang, followed by flying to Singapore for Christmas ending up in Kuala Lumpur for New Year.  In other words just your average little tour of Malaysia.

Langkawi

It was decided to go for a beach resort and after a number of recommendations the Madam & TS went to Berjaya resort.  Now I can say the TS was a wee bit apprehensive having never done a beach holiday, will I cope?  Could I survive the relentless reading of books and sun kissed surf?  Will Madam and I kill each other before the week is out?

Well readers, completely the opposite happened.  I became the proverbial beach bum and Madam was the cat on the hot tin roof, which in fact wasn't really but a wooden chalet in the rain forest.  A decent book, a nice spot on the beach, the occasional dip in the sea - what more could a TS ask for.

One of the highlights of Langkawi, apart from mountain biking and the superb cocktails was taking a trip up the cable car.  In fact two cable cars, as one connects a mountain top to the other.  In addition a sky bridge links two hill tops.  The views were spectacular despite the slight harr or overcastness.  

That was one thing that was regular as clockwork.  At about 3.30ish the wind would pick giving you roughly 30 mins to get under cover before a rainstorm happened.  Sometime sit was short and other times long, but always quite awesome.  The noise in the forest was something else I tell with all the birds and monkeys doing their nut!

Before we knew it the week was nearly over.  Langkawi had saved the pièce de résistance.  As part of  the resort they had a Thai restaurant which sat out over the sea.  

So Madam and I made sure we were there for sunset to sip out fizz and celebrate survival of the first week.  From here on in it was going to be an onslaught on our senses in so many different ways.  Next stop Penang. 

Sunset over Langkawi